Saturday, January 12, 2013

Brown Sugar Kitchen

On the west side of Oakland at 2534 Mandela Parkway and the corner of 26th Street sits the Brown Sugar Kitchen, which is where we had breakfast today. Geri has been pestering me to take her there after she heard a story on NPR about the chef/owner being awarded the prestigious title of Best Chef In the Bay Area award. No small accolade indeed.

I usually don't do restaurant reviews, but what the hell, it's something to write about. First of all let me say that this was worth the trip from our neighborhood. We got there and only had to wait about 10 minutes before being seated at the counter where there is a frosted sneeze guard separating the customers from the open kitchen. The counter is my favorite place to sit in just about any diner or cafe. That's where all the action is. The place was buzzing like a bee hive. The counter was clean, and we got our set-ups there complete with a cloth napkin, nice touch, and our water was served within a few minutes. So far, we were pleasantly pleased.

The exterior of the building is painted in a rich chocolate color to match the name of the cafe, and there is a security guard out in front. This is an industrial part of town with warehouses,  some that have been converted into work /live lofts, you know the scene, hip urban. Parking is no problem around there.

The Brown Sugar Kitchen is a beautiful room with great photos and original art on the walls. There's an open kitchen concept with a 4 burner stove and small flat grill/oven combo for cooking. Since we were seated at the counter we could see the four line chefs that were working. In addition to the three line chefs dead ahead in front of us was the waffle/beignet line chef working 3 waffle makers, and the deep fryer off to the left of us. Of the four line cooks three of them were women, and two of the those were twins. Now, that's something you don't see every day. This is a restaurant of matriarchs for sure. Sisters are doing it for themselves.

Once we were seated and got our water then we waited, and waited, and waited, for a good 15 minutes before Geri collared one of the wait staff to get us coffee, and once that occurred, another 5 minutes wait before we were able to order our meals. The wait staff was obviously in the weeds.

The menu is a limited menu that, by looking at the line staff, was quite easy to execute, which they did with effortless precision. I ordered the chicken and waffle combo with apple butter. Now, I know exactly what you're thinking. I'm not off my new program. If I go to a place that's famous for chicken and waffles I'm not going to get the granola and yogurt.

A batch of the chicken is breaded by one of the twins, then deep fried long enough to properly brown the exterior coating then finished off in the oven on a sheet pan by the other twin,  who also cooked the pulled pork hash and fried potatoes. They work like a WWWF tag team. The other female chef cooked the poached eggs, and placed them right on top of the hash. The dish looked delicious. Everything looks delicious. Poached eggs are my favorite way to cook eggs for breakfast.

The cornmeal waffles were ladled into the waffle maker, and when they were ready they were cut in half,  lightly buttered, and finished off in the oven for maybe 3 or 4 minutes with the chicken added to the plate. The apple butter that was applied was scrumptious. The house made syrup that accompanied them was delicious.  I know they're whipping egg whites into the waffle batter because this waffle was as light as air.

The chicken was melt in your mouth, finger licking damn good, and I ate it with my fingers, the way fried chicken should be eaten. I didn't have to work hard to get this chicken into my mouth either. It was delicate, and fell off the bone effortlessly. The batter was beautifully browned and crispy. Perfection. I didn't have a heavy feeling when I was finished. I was full but not stuffed.

The beignets came in triple, three to a serving,  and looked incredibly light and fluffy as well, sprinkled with powdered sugar. If we had a third person with us I would have ordered them without hesitation.

Geraldine's yogurt, banana and oatmeal granola was excellent, and I'm sure it was made in-house. It had granola, pecans, pumpkin seeds, oatmeal and brown sugar.

The coffee, yes I had coffee, was good, but no refills. The wait staff was once again, inattentive. Our policy on lousy service is simple. Bad service, bad tip. I'm tired of being burned too many times. I won't stiff you that's for certain, and I'm generous to a fault when I'm served well, but if you don't do your job, you don't get paid, simple. 10% is what you can count on. If you need more people hire them, or get out on the floor yourself if necessary. I've managed restaurants where the dish washer didn't show up, and that then became my job for the day. That's how it works. I've waited tables, and tended bar before too. All the waiter had to do was acknowledge that he knew we were there and said, "I know your here, I'm slammed, and I'll be with you asap, sorry for the wait."

Please remember, I am the son of a woman who supported her family, and worked the front of the house for 60 years. I have nothing but the highest respect for the wait staff. This is a management problem.

My review and recommendation is to #1- go to this restaurant as soon as you can, and often. #2- get there early, and sit at the counter and watch the chefs cook.  #3- Get the waffle and chicken and anything else. It's all good.  #4- Don't expect great service. The woman sitting next to me was a regular, 2 or 3 times a week, and she said the service this morning was normal.

Keith and Mick need to check this place out. Another great Oakland spot.

My rating:
Food: 3 joints, (you can't get no higher)
Service: 1 roach
Pricing: Pricey, but worth it.
Noise Level: Medium (there's low, medium, and high)

Brown Sugar Kitchen
2534 Mandela Parkway at 26th
Oakland, CA
510 839-SOUL  (7685)
Open: Tue to Sat. 7 AM - 3:30 PM
           Sun. 8:00 AM - 3:00 PM

Peace,

Make Food/Not War













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